Alpabzug – Alpine cattle descent in Switzerland

If you’re a regular reader of my blog, you’ll know that I often try to learn about the background of various Swiss traditions. Over the years I’ve been to quite a few events since I’ve been living in Switzerland, but there’s one that I’ve always missed – the Alpabzug, or Alpabfahrt (aka alpine cattle descent). In case you haven’t heard of it, it’s an autumn event in Switzerland that marks the ceremonial return of cows from the high mountain meadows to the lower valleys. Most of the village or small town population celebrate the return of the cattle with parades, traditional music, and fairs.

You can find lots of pictures of different “Alpabzüge” on the internet, but I really wanted to visit one in person to write about them more authentically. I chose the Alpine cattle descent in Kerns and I was not disappointed… I’ve never been to such a super traditional celebration, the smells, the people, the whole atmosphere were so special. So I was even more excited to write today’s blog post. I hope that you will also be inspired to visit an Alpine cattle descent this year or perhaps next year.

The background to the tradition
The most important details of an Alpine descent
Älplerchilbi or Alpine fair
The when and where?

Interesting facts

To get you even more in the mood for reading, I have first collected a few trivia about Alpine descents in general.

Milky mountain blessing

Cattle drives are held not only in the autumn but also in the spring. After all, the cattle have to return to the mountains at some point; otherwise, they would have nowhere to descend from! 😀 This event is not widely celebrated, but interestingly, the cows and the Alps themselves are often blessed by a local priest to ensure a successful season. And that’s quite something, isn’t it?

Cow parades across the globe

Alpabzug is a Swiss tradition, but similar cattle parades and drives can be found all over the world, often with their own regional variations. In Austria, for example, they are called Almabtrieb, while in Bavaria they are called Viehscheid. There are similar autumn cattle drives even in parts of the United States.

Types of cowbells

The iconic cowbells used to decorate the cattle during the Alpabzug come in different sizes and shapes, each with its own distinctive sound. But few people know that these cowbells are not only decorative, they also serve a practical purpose, helping herders to find their cattle in the vast Alpine pastures.

Cheesy connection

The Swiss Alpabzug is closely linked to cheese production. Cows from the Alpine meadows contribute to the high-quality milk used to produce famous Swiss cheeses such as Emmental, Gruyère (yummy) and Appenzeller.

The background to the tradition

The so-called Alpabzug has a rich history, deeply rooted in Swiss culture and traditions. These festive events offer a glimpse into Swiss rural life, showing the importance of the link between people, animals, and the breathtaking Alpine landscape. It is a centuries-old tradition celebrated in most parts of the country. In the album below you can browse through pictures of cattle festivals from the 1800s and 1900s. Like so many other traditions, the autumn Alpine descent (or cattle festival or feast) also has many names in Switzerland. In the German-speaking regions, it is called “Alpabzug” or “Alpabfahrt”, while in the French-speaking cantons, it is called “désalpe”.

The details, such as the date and the structure, may vary from region to region, but the tradition has a specific common core. Each festival celebrates the successful end of the alpine pasture season. It’s actually a sort of thanksgiving for the fact that the summer grazing season was accident-free. When you think about it, it is no wonder that they make such a big fuss about this event, as nothing was more important to our ancestors than having plenty of food to spare for the cold winter months.

The most important details of an Alpine descent

As I have already mentioned, each festival has its own unique customs, costumes, and traditions that make the region special. However, there are one or two elements that are generally present everywhere.

The most beautiful Swiss ladies

After grazing all summer on luscious Alpine herbs and the best grass, the return of the cows, sheep, and goats to the valley is a real celebration. And what have we been doing on festive days since we were little? Exactly, we dress up. For the drive, Alpine farmers and their families dress in the traditional costumes of the region. In some places, this means authentic Alpine costumes, in others it means blouses and shirts decorated with the region’s patterns.

Of course, the true protagonists of the Alpabzug, the animals, are also not to be left out of the excitement. They are beautifully dress up and decorated with embroidered leather belts with polished bells and tassels, and various colourful accessories on their head. This can be a small pine tree on which colourful papers hang, or flower wreaths and flower arrangements made by the owners of the animals the day before the descent. At the parade, I could have sworn that the animals were well aware of the event they were attending and walked as proudly with their flower crowns as their owners in their costumes.

End of the parade

In Switzerland, the end of the festive Alpabzug is usually marked by a horse-drawn carriage or other vehicle decorated with green branches. This is pretty much the same everywhere. However, there are differences in what is on the carriage. In some regions, the wagon is loaded with wooden tools, and in others with wooden containers used for cheese-making. In some regions, you’ll find a combination of both on the carriage. I’ve even come across a variation where you can throw donations into the cart (Sammelwagen in German).

Älplerchilbi or Alpine fair

An important element of every Alpabzug is the Älplerchilbi, which loosely translated means Alpine (Älpler) fair (chilbi). It includes everything from yodeling and alpine horn concerts to tractor parades, live cheese making, and selling local products. The idea is to bring the whole community together to celebrate the return of the animals. Stalls are set up before the actual Alpine descent and there are programs running all day long. There is always something to see, hear and taste. I found it quite amazing how many people are attracted to such an event. I was expecting something like a village fair back home, but unlike in my home country, there were no tents with cheap plastic toys. In fact, there were no vendors other than the locals. Everything is organised and prepared by the people from the region. They bake and package the cookies and cook the food, which makes the whole event even more authentic.

They sell many traditional Swiss dishes. My favourite was the “chässchnitte”, which is actually a crusty slice of bread with a delicious raclette cheese on top. Heavenly, really. Most people try bratwurst while visiting Switzerland, but I think on an Alpine descent “chässchnitte” is the ultimate must-try.

Alpine cattle descent – The when and where?

Traditionally, most Swiss Alpabzug takes place from mid-September to mid-October. There is no exact date, and it can vary between regions even within the same canton. Therefore, it is always worth checking local websites and event calendars in advance, because this is where you can really make sure when the annual Apine descent will take place, depending of course on the weather and other factors.
There is a collection on myswitzerland.com every year, that summarises the most important information in a few words. However, you can find a more detailed program, such as where to arrive, what time it starts, where to park, etc. on the website of the website of the village or town.

Sources:
Feste und Bräuche in der Schweiz, Barbara Piatti, Yvonne Rogenmoser, 23.08.2019, NordSüd Verlag
https://lenews.ch/2023/09/08/flower-covered-cows-take-to-swiss-streets-switzerlands-desalpe-alpabzug-explained/
https://www.myswitzerland.com/de-de/erlebnisse/sommer-herbst/herbst/schweizer-alpabzuege/
https://www.nachhaltigleben.ch/ausfluege/alpabzug-in-der-schweiz-hier-erleben-sie-die-tradition-mit-3815
https://www.blick.ch/schweiz/wie-man-einen-alpsommer-uebersteht-allein-mit-birchermuesli-steht-man-das-nicht-durch-id17906898.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BkPNJz43KQ
https://www.luzernerzeitung.ch/zentralschweiz/schwyz/schwyz-stars-auf-vier-beinen-886-tiere-an-der-viehausstellung-aufgefuehrt-ld.2357068?reduced=true
https://www.luzernerzeitung.ch/zentralschweiz/uri/kanton-uri-alpsegen-zwischen-glauben-und-magie-ld.113187
https://herisau24.ch/articles/153540-trotz-regen-ein-segen-urnaescher-bauernmarkt-2022